A Bittersweet Hug from Bengal

If you’ve ever stepped into a traditional Bengali household during lunch hour, chances are the first dish that hit the table wasn’t spicy, tangy, or even aromatic in the way most Indian food is. It was probably Shukto. Quiet. Gentle. Bittersweet. And yet, it holds a special place in the Bengali heart like no other.

Let’s get one thing straight—Shukto isn’t for everyone on the first try. But once you grow into it, you crave it like your grandmother’s warm hug. It’s that comforting. That nostalgic. And honestly, that layered in flavor.

What is Shukto, Anyway?

In the simplest terms, Shukto is a medley of vegetables—usually a mix of bitter and sweet ones—cooked in a mild, subtly spiced, slightly creamy broth. The key element is the bitterness from bitter gourd (korola), but don’t worry—it’s never overpowering. In fact, the bitterness is intentionally mellowed by adding milk, ghee, and sometimes even a touch of sugar.

In Bengal, Shukto is usually the first course of a traditional meal, especially during festivities or family gatherings. It’s more than just food—it’s a gentle beginning, a palate cleanser, and a nod to Ayurvedic wisdom that says a bit of bitterness wakes up your digestion.

Now, are you ready to bring this beautiful dish to life in your kitchen? Let’s walk through it together.

Ingredients You’ll Need

Before we start cooking, here’s a detailed list of ingredients. Don’t let the number of items scare you—it’s all about layering flavors and textures, and it’s so worth it in the end.

Vegetables (cut in 2-inch batons or cubes):

  • 1 medium bitter gourd (korola) – thinly sliced
  • 1 small raw banana (kachkola) – peeled and cut into batons
  • 1 small potato – peeled and chopped
  • 1 brinjal (begun) – not too soft, cut into cubes
  • 1 ridge gourd (jhinge) – peeled and cut
  • 1 drumstick (shojne danta) – cut into 2-inch pieces
  • ¼ cup raw papaya (optional) – peeled and cubed
  • ¼ cup white pumpkin (chalkumro, optional) – peeled and cubed
  • A few hyacinth beans (sheem) or string beans – if in season

For tempering and flavor:

  • 2 tablespoons mustard oil (use this if you want the authentic flavor)
  • ½ teaspoon radhuni (or substitute with mustard seeds if you can’t find it)
  • 1 teaspoon panch phoron (a Bengali five-spice mix)
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 2 dried red chillies
  • ½ inch fresh ginger – ground to a paste
  • 1 teaspoon poppy seed paste or mustard paste (optional)
  • Salt to taste
  • ½ teaspoon sugar (optional but recommended)
  • 1½ cups milk – to add creaminess and balance
  • 1 tablespoon ghee – for finishing
  • Bori (dried lentil dumplings) – fried (optional but gives great crunch)

Preparation Steps

Let’s go through this step-by-step, just like you would in your kitchen, apron tied, ladle in hand.

Step 1: Prep the Vegetables

Start by washing, peeling, and chopping all the vegetables. The bitter gourd should be sliced a bit thinner than the rest, because we’ll be frying it slightly to reduce the bitterness.

Raw banana and drumsticks are essential here—they add texture and depth. If you’re using papaya or white pumpkin, make sure to cut them into small chunks so they cook evenly with the rest.

Step 2: Lightly Fry the Bitter Gourd

Heat about a tablespoon of mustard oil in a deep pan or wok. When it starts to smoke slightly, add the sliced bitter gourd and sauté on medium heat until they turn golden and a little crisp. This step is crucial—it mellows the harsh edge of bitterness.

Remove the fried bitter gourd and keep it aside.

Step 3: Tempering the Oil

In the same pan, add a bit more mustard oil if needed. Now add the bay leaves, dried red chilies, and panch phoron. If you have radhuni (it smells a bit like celery seeds), this is your moment to shine—just a pinch will do.

As the spices start to splutter and release their aroma, add the ginger paste. Sauté for a few seconds until the raw smell disappears.

If you’re using mustard or poppy seed paste (some families do), stir it in now. Let it fry gently so it doesn’t taste raw later.

Step 4: Cooking the Vegetables

Add the vegetables that take longer to cook first—raw banana, drumsticks, and papaya or pumpkin. Sauté them for 3–4 minutes. Then add the potatoes, brinjal, and ridge gourd.

Season with salt and a pinch of sugar. Stir well so all the vegetables get coated with the spices.

Add about 1 cup of water—just enough to help the veggies cook without boiling them into mush. Cover the pan and let everything simmer on low heat until the vegetables are tender but not falling apart. This usually takes about 10–12 minutes.

Step 5: Bring Back the Bitter Gourd

Once the veggies are cooked, add the fried bitter gourd back into the pan. Give it a gentle mix. You’ll already start smelling the medley of flavors—earthy, spicy, slightly bitter.

Step 6: Add the Milk

This is what makes Shukto so different from any other curry.

Warm the milk slightly (don’t boil it), then pour it into the pan. Stir very gently and let it simmer for 2–3 minutes. The milk gives it a light creamy texture and balances the bitterness in a magical way.

Taste and adjust the seasoning. Add a little more sugar if you want it milder. Some people even add a pinch of flour to the milk before adding it, to help thicken the gravy, but it’s optional.

Step 7: Final Touch with Ghee (and Bori if Using)

Turn off the heat. Drizzle a spoonful of ghee over the top and give it a final stir. If you’re using fried bori (those sun-dried lentil dumplings), sprinkle them on just before serving so they stay crispy.

Let the Shukto sit covered for a few minutes—it tastes even better after resting.

Serving Suggestions

Shukto is always served as the very first course in a Bengali meal, traditionally with plain white rice. The idea is to awaken the appetite gently, with flavors that are subtle, nuanced, and slightly bitter.

Follow it with dal, a fried vegetable, and maybe a fish curry or meat dish later. But Shukto always goes first. It’s the curtain-raiser. And oh, what a beautiful one.

Tips and Tricks (From Bengali Kitchens)

  • Use mustard oil. It’s non-negotiable if you want the real flavor.
  • Don’t overboil the milk. Add it after all the veggies are cooked to avoid curdling.
  • Adjust bitterness. If you’re new to bitter gourd, you can soak the slices in salted water for 15 minutes before frying. Or just use fewer pieces.
  • Radhuni is rare but golden. If you find it at a Bengali store, get it. It’s one of the defining flavors.
  • Bori adds crunch and soul. Don’t skip it if you have some on hand.

Why This Dish Matters

Shukto isn’t flashy. It doesn’t make your tongue tingle or your eyes water. But it’s important—because it teaches patience. It teaches balance. And it shows that bitterness, when paired with the right companions, can be beautiful too.

In a world where bold and spicy often steals the show, Shukto is the quiet classic that reminds you of home, family, and the gentle rhythm of a Bengali afternoon. Once you get used to it, you’ll start craving that first warm spoonful of creamy, bitter-sweet Shukto over fluffy rice.

So next time you want to cook something that feeds the soul, not just the stomach, make a pot of Shukto. Light some sunshine into your kitchen. And maybe, just maybe, fall in love with bitterness in the most delicious way.